Introduction: Clearing the Waters on the Myths of Saltwater Pool Corrosion
Your saltwater chlorinator has suddenly had a Check Cell or other similar warning light turn red, or maybe you
were
looking over your salt system and see substantial scaling on your salt cell - it’s time to clean your cell. If
it’s your
first time dealing with this aspect of pool maintenance, then you need to know just how to clean a pool’s salt
cell.
Never fear, it’s an easy part of your pool maintenance as we’ll explain below in six simple steps*.
There are two basic styles of salt cells, the “inline” style (like a tube) which usually can be cleaned with a
“Cleaning
Stand” - typically sold separately - or, the exposed “electrode” style which is cleaned in an open container or
bucket.
How To Clean Inline Salt Cells, Step-By-Step
-
Shut off power to your pool system, disconnect the cell’s cable from the control module, and remove the
cell
from the plumbing. Once removed, inspect the overall condition and integrity of the cell and all of its
connections, then rinse
it with a hose to dislodge any loose deposits or debris trapped between the cell plates, or “blades.”
-
Blend a mixture of 4 parts water with 1 part Muriatic Acid**, unless your owner’s manual specifies a
different ratio. For many cells, you may want to mix enough to make 1.25 quarts (4 cups water, 1 cup
acid).
-
If you don’t have a cleaning stand or cap, then proceed to the instructions for
Electrode-style Cells. If you have a
cleaning stand, attach it to the cell, stand it upright and make sure it is secure. You may wish to put
this
assembly in
a container such as a 5 gallon bucket for extra protection. Then fill the cell until the blades are
fully
covered.
Unless your owner’s manual says otherwise, allow the cell to soak for 15-20 minutes, during which time
you
should see
some fizzing or bubbling around the blades. If your owner’s manual specifies a different time period,
then
again, defer
to the manufacturer’s recommendation.
-
Empty the solution from the cell. Dispose of the solution by pouring it into the pool, and then rinse the
cell with
fresh water.
-
Be sure to Rinse the cell and your work area with fresh water. Inspect the cell to ensure there is no
visible
scaling or debris between the plates, and proceed to reinstall it unless there are still visible
deposits on the
salt cell. A particularly dirty cell may not clean in one or two sessions. Continue cleaning if visible
scaling
remains. Otherwise you’re ready to resume chlorine production.
-
Reinstall the salt cell by reattaching it to its plumbing connection. Be sure that all o-rings are
present,
free of
damage, and clean. Reconnect the cell to its control module. Restore power to the pool system. Ensure
that there
are no
leaks when the pump runs. Allow the system to run for 5-10 minutes, and confirm that no more warning
lights or
system
errors occur on the salt chlorinator.
With a sparkling clean cell back in place you should be all set for months of carefree pool life. If you live in
an area where you winterize, you may find it convenient to acid wash your salt cell again when you close for the
winter or
perhaps when you open in the spring.
How To Clean Electrode-Style Cells, Step-By-Step
-
Shut off power to your pool system, disconnect the cell’s cable from the control module, and remove the
cell
from the
plumbing. Once removed, inspect the overall condition and integrity of the cell and all of its
connections, then
rinse
it with a hose to dislodge any loose deposits or debris trapped between the cell plates, or “blades.”
If your salt chlorine generator came with a cleaning stick or wand then carefully scrape deposits off the
blades
and
rinse again when complete. If you have lost or misplaced the cleaner, you may substitute a suitable piece of
plastic or
wood - never anything metal or anything that may scratch the cell blades.
-
Blend a mixture of 4 parts water with 1 part Muriatic Acid**, unless your owner’s manual specifies a
different ratio. For many cells, you may want to mix enough to make __ quarts.
-
Place the cell in your cleaning container with the cord up and out, and then fill the container until the
cell blades
are fully immersed. Unless your owner’s manual says otherwise, allow the cell to soak for 15-20 minutes,
during
which
time you should see some fizzing or bubbling around the blades. If your owner’s manual specifies a
different
time
period, then again, defer to the manufacturer’s recommendation.
-
Remove the cell from the solution. Dispose of the solution by pouring it into the pool, and then rinse
the
cell with
fresh water.
-
Be sure to Rinse the cell and your work area with fresh water. Inspect the cell to ensure there is no
visible
scaling
or debris between the plates, and proceed to reinstall it unless there are still visible deposits on the
salt
cell. A
particularly dirty cell may not clean in one or two sessions. Continue cleaning if visible scaling
remains.
Otherwise
you’re ready to resume chlorine production.
-
Reinstall the salt cell by reattaching it to its plumbing connection. Be sure that all o-rings are
present,
free of
damage, and clean. Reconnect the cell to its control module. Restore power to the pool system. Ensure
that there
are no
leaks when the pump runs. Allow the system to run for 5-10 minutes, and confirm that no more warning
lights or
system
errors occur on the salt chlorinator.
With a sparkling clean cell back in place you should be all set for months of carefree pool life. If you live
in
an area
where you winterize, you may find it convenient to acid wash your salt cell again when you close for the
winter
or
perhaps when you open in the spring.
* Important: This generic guide is not a substitute for a product manual. Always follow the instructions as
printed in
the product manual of your salt chlorinator, which will vary by model. Follow all safety precautions
outlined in your
product manual.
** Muriatic acid is commonly available at a concentration of around 14.5%, but sometimes at around 28%. If
you have
purchased the higher concentration acid, then the cleaning solution should be 8:1 water-to-acid instead of
the normal
4:1.
*** The smaller volume of solution contained inside the cell may have depleted its potency.
FAQs
Many modern salt chlorinators utilize a process of reversing polarities while operating which
slows the development of
scale and extends the time between acid washings. This self-cleaning process allows the salt
cell to go a long time
before it accumulates a significant amount of buildup. However, you can’t eliminate the periodic
need to acid wash the
cell.
Trust your eyes and clean the cell.
In order for your salt chlorinator to do its job properly, the cell must be clean. Acid-washing a
cell which has mineral
scaling to dissolve, will clean it and should not significantly impact its cell life when
instructions are properly
followed.
While there is some chance that previously all of the scaling inside of the cell didn’t fully get
cleaned out, the
pool’s water chemical balance is likely at play. Unusually rapid scale formation is a strong
indicator that there is a
problem with the LSI, or Saturation Index. Obtain a full pool store water test and use an online
calculator to determine
the pool’s LSI and correct it if necessary. Unbalanced LSI can lead to scaling in as little as
24 hours, while properly
balanced LSI can ensure very minimal cell cleaning (even in areas with hard water).